Dry-Cleaning-What Really Happens at the Dry Cleaner
The term dry cleaning is a bit of a misnomer. In the United States, the dry cleaning process refers to cleaning clothes and fabrics by using a chemical solvent rather than water. The dry cleaning process is typically used on clothes and fabrics that cannot withstand the rigors of a standard home washer and dryer. It also eliminates the need for more time-consuming hand washing.
In reality, the cleaning is almost always done with liquids, however, the chemical solvent contains little or no water. While cleaning the surface of fabrics, it does not penetrate the fibers like water does in a washing machine. This process preserves the desirable qualities of many fabrics and helps to prevent shrinking and stretching.
Most dry cleaners also offer wet cleaning for washable items like starched shirts, slacks, and household linens,
The Commercial Dry Cleaning Process
The commercial dry cleaning process begins in your local dry cleaning storefront when you drop off your dirty clothes. Today, most dry cleaners do not have very large and expensive cleaning equipment on-site; many will transport your laundry to a central cleaning facility. This is more cost-efficient than having machines at every drop-off location. There are several steps for each item cleaned:
Garment Tagging: Every item is tagged with an identification number. Some cleaners use paper tags that are stapled or pinned to the garment. Others use an iron-on strip with a permanently assigned barcode for regular customers. Similar soiled garments from different customers are cleaned together and tagging ensures that your clothes are returned to you.
Garment Inspection: Before clothes are cleaned, they are inspected for items left in pockets, rips, tears, and missing buttons. These items are returned to customers and problems are noted as issues known prior to cleaning.
Stain Pretreatment: As part of the inspection process, the cleaner checks for stains on the clothes and treats them prior to the solvent cleaning process. If you know what caused a specific stain, it is extremely helpful to tell the cleaner to get the best results in the stain removal process. This is also the time a good cleaner removes or covers delicate buttons and trim to prevent damage.
Machine Dry Cleaning: Soiled clothes are loaded into a large drum machine and cleaned with a water-free chemical solvent. The clothes are gently agitated in the solution which causes soils to loosen. The solvent is then drained, filtered, and recycled and the clothes are “rinsed” in a fresh solvent solution to flush away any last remains of soil.
Post Spotting: The dry cleaning process works very well in removing oil-based stains thanks to the chemical solvent. However, other types of stains are not always removed effectively. So, all garments are post spotted to look for remaining stains. The stains are treated with steam, water, or even a vacuum to remove any remaining traces.
Finishing: The final step includes getting the garment ready to wear. This includes steaming or pressing out wrinkles, reattaching buttons, or making repairs. Items are then hung or folded to return to the customer. The plastic bags provided are only there to help you get your clothes home without more stains. It’s important to take them off right away or risk damage to your clothes from trapped moisture.
History of Commercial Dry Cleaning Chemicals
Dry cleaning has been around since Roman times when ammonia was used to clean woolen togas to prevent any shrinking that happens when wool is exposed to hot water. Next, cleaners moved to petroleum-based solvents like gasoline and kerosene which proved to be highly flammable and dangerous to use.
By the 1930s cleaners began using perchloroethylene or tetrachloroethylene, a chlorinated solvent. They are highly effective cleaners and are still used by many commercial cleaners today. Both have a distinctive chemical odor. Perchloroethylene is referred to as perc and is classified as carcinogenic to humans. In the 1990s the United States Environmental Protection Agency began to regulate dry cleaning chemicals and encourage commercial cleaners to use safer, more environmentally friendly solvents.
30 Days of Outfits: June Edition, By-Stitch-Fix-with-Joe’s-Cleaners
Summertime chic is easy to pull off with a few eye-catching pieces in striking colors and prints made to mix and match. The best thing about warm weather is that less is more when it comes to style that makes an impact. Light, breathable fabrics keep you stylish and comfortable, even in the sweltering heat and humidity.
BEACH-READY PANTS & SOFT SHORTS
Stay beach-ready in the softest linen pants that billow in the breeze wherever your feet happen to hit the sand this summer. Pair soft shorts and a breathable cotton tunic to wear over your two-piece, and go from the surfside to lunch on the boardwalk with a carry-all, oversized bag in tow.
Bold tropical prints that say #MyLifeIsAVacation are making a statement this summer. Bring the tropics to work for a boost of creative inspiration when you pair a pencil skirt with spice-colored leather sandals and a simple, textured clutch. On weekends, opt for cropped jumpsuits and rompers with your espadrilles for a look that says “always down for brunch.”
MAXIS, SUNDRESSES & ROMPERS, OH MY!
‘Tis the season to take your pick of dresses that flutter & rompers that flatter. Manage the on-the-go demands of longer, warmer days, while preserving a cool and carefree summer mood by choosing pieces in prints, big and small. Tame a bright, bold print dress or romper with darker grounding accessories, like a basic black clutch and flat leather sandals. Play up smaller prints by picking out one statement color from your maxi dress to match your sun hat, tote bag or chunky necklace.
HAVING A DENIM MOMENT
Distressed sun-bleached denim with boho finishings at the hem can be dressed up with sandals bejeweled with beads or metallic studs for an elevated boho chic look. Capris and cropped denim in fun colors like aqua, pale yellow or coral paired with a light-weight natural-colored tunic or bright sleeveless blouse is an easy way to refresh and wear your denim as the weather heats up.
Stay cool all season long. Ask your Stylistfor pieces that are just right for sunny days in your next Fix.
“The first step to finding a good tailor is to ask around. Ask men and women who are well-dressed. If they look good on it, they will probably fit their stuff. Please contact your local luxury boutique to contact the customer for a change. ”
“You need to be able to put on your sewing costume and check your suitability. Make sure you can deliver the finished garments exactly as you want. The tailor should be able to communicate with you appropriately, explain how the changes can get you what you want, and explain if they can do it successfully. Fix and mark the necessary adjustments. ”
Look for your suitability.
“Ignore the size! Find the one that fits your widest body part, then fit everything else.
“All women, especially women with large breasts, should not reduce the size of their shirts too small to fit the waistline. You almost always want a garment to outline your waist but achieve it through sewing.
“The length of the most flattering skirt or cropped pants is always hem to the point where the legs start tapering, regardless of mini, knee, midi or ankle length.
“The pants must fit well in the ass. They have to match the height of the shoes you can wear. The bottom pants have a slight gap on the front and no more than 1/2 inch from the floor at the back. This will create a lean vision.
How comfy they are, how great they look, and what shoes you’ll pair with them, to name a few.
But unless you’re a hardcore denimhead, there are likely a few important components of your favorite pair that you don’t always think about.
Below, we list the often forgotten parts of the pant that make your Levi’s® special.
Rivets In 1871, Latvian immigrant Jacob Davis pioneered rivets while working as a tailor in Reno, Nev. Davis had originally used rivets on horse blankets, and he found they worked well for re-enforcing the stress point in men’s work trousers—particularly the corners of the back pockets and the crotch, which often tore apart when exposed to heavy duty wear and tear.
Since Davis did not have the money required to patent the technique of using rivets, he reached out to Levi Strauss to see if he was interested in applying with him. In 1873, the pair received a patent for “improvement in fastening pocket-openings.” This was the birth of what we now know as the blue jean. Today, rivets continue to strengthen and reinforce the most vulnerable parts of our jeans.
It’s worth noting that Levi Strauss & Co. was the first company to make riveted pants, creating a new category of workwear.
Crotch Seam In pattern making, sewing and fitting, the crotch seam is said to be the most challenging construction element of a pair of pants.
The crotch seam
Pattern makers use two important measurements to draft the curves that compose the crotch seam: crotch length and crotch depth. Crotch depth is determined by having a fit model sit in a chair, and then measuring the distance from their waistline to the seat. Crotch length is the distance from the top center front of the pants around to the top center back of the pants.
There’s a large amount of room for variation in the resulting curves with lots of potential for error, yet the shapes are essential components in obtaining the perfect fit.
Selvedge If you’re a denimhead, surely you know all about the selvedge. For everyone else, what’s all the hype about?
The word selvedge refers to the tightly finished edge of any fabric when it comes off of the loom. Looms in the 1800s produced strips of denim that were long and narrow. To use the entire width of the fabric, the fabric’s edge, or “self-edge” was used as the side seam of the pant. This was efficient, and it also made the side seam inherently immune to fraying and unraveling.
Today, the vintage looms and narrow fabric widths required for production make selvedge jeans rarer and more expensive than jeans that finish with an overlock stitch at the side seams.
The Watch Pocket The first blue jeans had four pockets—only one in back and, in the front, two plus the small, watch pocket. Originally included as protection for pocket watches, thus the name, this extra pouch has served many functions, evident in its many titles: frontier pocket, condom pocket, coin pocket, match pocket and ticket pocket, to name a few.
Not only is the pocket extremely useful for holding tiny trinkets, it is also is loved by denimheads for the faded and worn nature it takes on over time.
Twill Why is the inside of your jeans white and the outside blue? That’s due to the twill weave of your jeans.
Technically, a twill weave occurs when filling or “weft” threads (often white) are woven over and then under two or more “warp” yarns (often blue). This produces a subtle diagonal pattern across the weave and makes the warp yarns predominate on the face of the fabric and the weft yarns show more on the back.
In “right hand twill” the diagonal lines of the twill run from the lower left corner of the fabric to the upper right corner. Made from yarn that is spun counterclockwise, right hand twill is known for creating crisper and more defined fades than other versions, such as left hand twill and broken twill. Right hand twill was also the first weave purchased by Levi Strauss to make the original pair of Levi’s.
Stitches Bartack is a stitch that you might not have noticed on your denim. It looks like a line of short and close together stitches, used to reinforce jeans in places where they are most stressed during wear. Bartacks are usually seen around flies, crotch seams and pocket openings. These strong stiches are essentially a series of small zigzag stitches. In production, there is a special machine that makes this durable stitch.
Hems can be sewn with both a chain stitch and a lock stitch. Chain stitches allow the hem to twist and roll in a particular way after washing. This is called “roping.”
However, the lock stitch has advantages of being stronger and less prone to unraveling.
Thread And what about thread color? The orange thread used on the original Levi’s has now become an industry standard. Legend has it that Jacob Davis originally insisted that the thread be orange to match the jean’s copper rivets. But we don’t know that to be fact. Many Levi Strauss & Co. records were lost in the 1906 earthquake and fire, so, as a result, we really don’t know why orange thread was chosen.
Thread color, as seen on a Levi’s® arcuate.
The more there is to know about your jeans, the more there is to love about them. Next time you step into your favorite pair of Levi’s, take extra notice of these special details.
From – http://www.levistrauss.com/unzipped-blog/2014/04/17/those-oft-forgotten-pant-parts/
The most common reason to visit an alteration shop is to have hems and sleeves adjusted on skirts, dresses, jeans, slacks, shirts, blouses and blazers.
Other popular services include mending and resizing garments. Mending services include repairing holes and tears and replacing broken zippers. Size changes can be achieved by adjusting or adding darts to blouses, dresses, and blazers. Seams can be taken in or let out to improve fit. The waistlines of pants, skirts, and dresses can also be adjusted.
Best fit for pants, dresses, and jackets
Here are best-fit guidelines for men and women:
Ideally, the pant leg falls to the top of the shoe and fabric does not touch the floor.
Jacket and blazer sleeves should fall to the bottom of the wrist bone on the thumb side when arms are resting at both sides. For men, shirt cuffs ideally fall one-fourth to one-half of an inch lower than the blazer sleeve to show a show minimal cuff.
An empire waist flatters women with fuller hips and a smaller torso by bringing attention to the waist. An empire waist also flatters straight female silhouettes by creating the impression of a curvy figure.
Custom, or bespoke, tailoring
Custom tailoring is the process of making clothing to fit an individual and differs considerably from alterations made to a ready-made piece of clothing.
Custom tailors, also known as bespoke, or made-to-order tailors or dressmakers, are highly knowledgeable about how to get a good fit, and about sewing and clothing construction methods. They often work in specialty clothing boutiques and family-owned businesses, or as independent tailors.
Costs depend on the type of item, type of fabric and embellishments, amount of detail requested and prices of the specific tailor. Shirts generally cost at least $100, pants cost at least $250 and the jackets are at least $350.
Custom tailoring takes between one to six months, depending on the amount of detail and garment type.
Tips for finding a tailor:
Research and get recommendations
In addition to consulting Angie’s List, ask friends and family for recommendations for dressmakers or tailors. Ask your favorite dry cleaners if they have an alternation or tailoring staff or could make recommendations since they often work with expensive, custom-made clothing.
Ask whether a sewing professional has to experience creating the kind of garment you want. Ask to see photos or examples of the dressmaker’s or tailor’s work.
Ask for quotes
As noted above, custom-made clothing can be very expensive. However, the price depends on several things, including the type of garment you want, the complexity of the pattern, whether you need a pattern made for you, and the fabric used. If you have to undergo numerous fittings, that will increase the cost. Ask for an estimate before commissioning any work.
You’ll be called in at least once or twice for fittings. Fittings take time, so you may want to look for a seamstress or tailor who works close to where you live or work.
Cost-saving tip: If you can’t afford custom-made clothing, having store bought-clothes professionally altered can be a good compromise. The secret of many well-dressed people is that they take their moderately priced clothing into a dry cleaner, seamstress or tailor for alterations for a close to custom fit.
Sewing experts can provide additional services, including restyling clothes and repairing fine leather. Restyling keeps clothes current. Sewing experts who provide this service can convert necklines to accent the chest or elongate the neck. They can turn a dress into a skirt or alter the style of the sleeves to create a fresh look.
Minor fine leather repairs involve carefully weaving new stitches to blend into the fabric. Extensive damage to a leather garment may require new material to replace the original leather.
Work with a reputable fur salon before deciding to buy a fur coat. It’s best to hire a professional to repair, clean and store your precious fur.
DIY tailoring is not as simple or easy as it sounds. Sewing a hem or stitching a seam is not tailoring. To get the fit and lay you want for your clothes to fit right usually requires a sewing machine, serger, seam breaker, sewing mannequin, irons, and various other seamtress tools. Tailors even use specific type of sissors called shears.
For most consumers, it’s not worth an investment in tools or material. Not the mention the damage that can be done by incorrectly cutting a piece of fabric or finished garment. If you’re not willing to learn or don’t have the patience to apart seam, leave it to the professionals.